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Acute Angling - Exotic Amazon Fishing Trips |
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Rio Travessao Memories by Steve Townson
To say I was privileged to fish on the Rio Travessão this season is an understatement. This has to be the most gorgeous river I have ever fished with its stunning, natural beauty and its seemingly hypnotic, spiritual energy. I am always thrilled to just travel along its length, through its braids and fast currents, over the endless cascades and waterfalls, never mind the fishing! Surrounded by tall jungle on all sides, brim-full with wildlife and fish, it is a true joy just to be there. It is a higher altitude river full of rocks and boulders, some the size of big trucks, and it varies in depth from sandy beaches and shallow stretches, roaring waterfalls and fast currents to huge, slow, deep pools filled with 'denizens of the deep'.
Due to some heavy rain in the mountains
further upstream a few weeks before we arrived, the water levels were higher
than expected, with the clarity slightly more stained than I remembered
on my last visit. This made lure fishing slower than normal. However nothing
could dampen our team's ardour one bit. Armed to the teeth with an array
of fishing rods, reels, lures, hooks and sinkers, off we went to explore
this amazing waterway.
The Peacocks and Trairão played ball on nearly every cast with salt-water Spooks to eddies, quiet water behind
rocks, laydowns and bushes along the banks, along sand bars, even in faster
water, but casting accuracy had to be good. I also caught some using shallow-running
Rapalas and Yozuri Crystal minnows and even with deep divers under waterfalls
and in the deeper pools.
The Travessão Peacocks have to
be some of the most beautiful fish I have ever seen. They are a much shorter
and stockier fish than we're used too on the Negro or Madeira watersheds
and the wider girth seems to give them more stamina and makes them fight
harder in the current. The females were nearly all a lighter to darker
shade of silver/gray/green, while the big buck males had the most spectacular
gold/yellow hue to them, with three flank markings cross-between elongated
rosettes and short bars, vivid blue dorsal fins, lighter blue/gray fins
below the body and big spawning humps on their heads. These males would
literally streak across shallow water creating a big V-wake to get at the
lures. Exciting stuff and definitely not for the faint-hearted!
Big Bicuda were few and far between this time, but I did get stuck into a few and lost most. My biggest weighed
in at a respectful 12 pounds, caught on a bright orange Rapala minnow bait,
a monster Bicuda by any standards.
With all these huge Piranhas, cut bait
was readily available and all of us tried our hand for the famous Cats
that inhabit this river. We all caught a real mixed bag of cats,
with the rare Bocão Catfish (which looks very like a Cobia and doesn't
have a single whisker on his head), Mingá cats, Flat-whiskered Cats,
Redtails and a few Surubim Cats, along with some others I just can't remember
the names of. Everyone else but me caught some big, beautifully spotted
Jundira Cats to 25 pounds. I admit I failed miserably even though they
were in every hole on every bend. Unfortunately the really big boys, the
Giant Piraiba (made famous in this river by the world record 295 pound
whopper caught in 2007 by Russell Jensen) just didn't turn on for us.
But I truly thought I was stuck into one at one point. I eventually got
the leviathan to the beach (or did he drag me over to it?) where he turned
into a big, colorful Redtail Cat (or Pirarara) of about 80 pounds. He felt
and fought like a fish twice the size. These big brutes never cease to
amaze me with their powerful lunges and screaming, reel-smokin' runs. It
took me about 30 minutes to land him, even on the heavy gear I use for
trolling for Giant Nile Perch. And the sound they make out of water is
like nothing you ever heard before, like giant, musical bellows belching
air from their gills.
Our Indian guides know the river intimately; after all, we were in their back yard! They would point to fishy areas and nearly every time were spot on. They manoeuvred our boats perfectly through the rock infested water and rarely hit one. All of them were nice guys and really friendly and helpful. The 'rustic' camp set at the riverside under dense trees is about as good a campsite as you can get 100's of miles away from any other human being. Two-man tents have camp beds and storage area big enough to keep all your gear and more. Everything from the dining table and benches to the kitchen and food storage areas were made from dead wood found in the jungle. The deal was, leave it as it was found, so no damage and no rubbish left. A huge freezer supplied us with cold drinks all day. A shower area with a solar shower bag gave a welcome end to a hot day's fishing and of course it wouldn't be fair not to mention our camp manager Chico's pride and joy, his thunder box, the throne, complete with box and seat set over a deep pit within a screened toilet area. Regular applications of lime powder would render the site odourless. Where in the Amazon jungle can you find this sort of treatment? The whole trip was a success from start to end. We all caught big fish, we all caught numerous species and we all came back happy folk. Thanks to Paul Reiss, Wellington Melo, Chico and his camp team and to all the Indian guides for a marvellous job well done. I'll be back next year for sure. Steve Townson March 2nd 2009
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